Yellowstone National Park

July 25, 2014

Yellowstone National Park, the nation’s first national park, is famous for its wildlife and geothermal features.  I had the opportunity for a short visit on my road-trip back to Michigan from Washington.  Having previously visited the park, I decided to visit some of the sites that I have missed in the past.  With limited time available I decided to do many day-hikes instead of an overnight backpacking adventure.  I hope to return in the future for an extended backpacking trip in the Yellowstone region.

I entered the park from the north and went east at Mammoth to Tower Falls.

Tower Falls

There were great morning views and lots of flowers.

 I decided to pass the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and head west to Norris Campground as I wanted to ensure that I had a campsite for the evening.  It was almost full but after driving around I found an empty site, paid for it, and made sure that I left a note indicating that I had reserved it.  I then drove back to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone on its South Rim.  It was a short walk to Artist Point and a spectacular view of the Yellowstone River and the Lower Falls.

I decided to explore some of the nearby trails and began hiking east along the South Rim with the Yellowstone River far below.

I decided to do a short 3-4 mile loop around leaving the rim.  I next came to Lilypad Lake.

Lilypad Lake

There were some thermal features nearby.

Clear Lake was a highlight and had a great reflection.

Clear Lake

There was some pleasant hiking through some meadows.

After crossing the road and passing through the Uncle Tom’s Trailhead, I descended on Uncle Tom’s Trail down many stairs to an impressive view of the Lower Falls.

 I continued on the South Rim back to the Artist Point Parking lot and went back to Artist Point a second time.

Artist Point

From the South Rim I headed south to Hayden Valley.  There was more than vehicles on the road.

Hayden Valley

I explored a few thermal features nearby and then headed back north to the North Rim of the Canyon.

I went to the Brink of the Upper Falls.

There were also great views of the Lower Falls from the North Rim.

I went to the Brink of the Lower Falls as well and the views were exceptional. (Uncle Tom’s Trail can be seen in upper left.)

Brink of the Lower Falls

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from Brink of Lower Falls

After climbing back up, I had a view of the Upper Falls.

I went farther west along the North Rim to Inspiration Point.

I headed back to set up camp, only to find that another group of campers had set-up all their stuff in my site and taken down my reservation tag on the post.  They weren’t there, so I left my vehicle and a note on the post.  I hiked over to the Norris Geyser Basin.

Norris Geyser Basin

The basin was quite scenic and I took the time to explore most of it.

Echinus Geyser

I returned to camp and enjoyed a relaxing evening along the Gibbon River.

Gibbon River 

I crossed the road and wandered around as the sun set.

At the campsite I found the group who had moved into my site, it was two guys and a group of boys.  They supposed had come earlier than I did, but somehow I managed to pay, get the tag on the post, and leave before they came back. I’m not sure how this was possible without me seeing them in the process, but I was willing to share the site with them as I was planning to leave early in the morning.  While I wasn’t sure of the credibility of their story, I went along with it.  They were nice and were on a great road trip to lots of national parks.  They offered me a baked potato.  Thank you!

In the morning I drove South to the Lower Geyser Basin.

Lower Geyser Basin

I went to Grand Prismatic Spring, one of the most impressive springs in the park. I crossed the Firehole River.

Grand Prismatic Spring

I decided to hike the Fairy Falls Trail for a better view of Grand Prismatic Spring.

Grand Prismatic Spring

I drove to the Upper Geyser Basin and Old Faithful area.

Firehole River

This area had some of the finest thermal features.

I went up Geyser Hill for a great view of Old Faithful.

I continued to explore this unique area.

I happened to be near Castle Geyser just when it was supposed to erupt.

Castle Geyser

By the time I was back, Old Faithful was erupting again.

I drove south to a great view of Yellowstone Lake and the mountains in the distance.

I explored the West Thumb Geyser Basin and enjoyed a ranger talk.

West Thumb of Yellowstone Lake

There were even geysers underwater.

From here I continued south and entered Grand Teton National Park.  While short, my time in Yellowstone National Park was quite rewarding.  I would have loved to have a more remote hiking experience, but in a place as big as Yellowstone, I was quite satisfied with the quantify and quality of scenery I was able to see.  I certainly hope to return in the future for a long backpacking adventure as there are many wilderness options available in the park.

Garibaldi Provincial Park: Black Tusk, Cheakamus Lake, Panorama Ridge

July 3-6, 2014

Garibaldi Provincial Park is located in Brittish Columbia 70 km north of Vancouver in the Whistler area.  The park has some truly amazing views.  I discovered it randomly while looking at Google Maps while I was staying in Anacortes, Washington.  My route began at the Black Tusk Trailhead/Rubble Creek Parking lot.  For planning information and a great website see here: http://www.vancouvertrails.com/.

Day One: Rubble Creek Parking lot to Garibaldi Lake Campground
Day Two: Garibaldi Lake Campground to The Black Tusk to East Cheakamus Lake Campground
Day Three: East Cheamamus Lake Campground to Panorama Ridge and off East Side of ridge at unnamed lake.
Day Four: Unnamed Lake to Panorama Ridge and then back to parking lot through Taylor Meadows

Day 1: Rubble Creek Parking lot to Garibaldi Lake Campground

I began the day driving north to the US/Canada border.  After some time waiting, I made it into Canada and drove through Vancouver.  The drive was beautiful along the Sea to Sky Highway.

On the trail I quickly began my climb up to Garibaldi Lake along Rubble Creek.

It was a significant climb with lots of switchbacks.  I made it to Barrier and Less Garibaldi Lakes.

I followed the outflow from Garibaldi Lake.

I came to the peak that the park is named after, Mount Garibaldi.

Then I reached the tip of Garibaldi Lake near the Rubble Creek outflow.

I followed along the edge on the way to the campground, knowing that the view was only going to get better!

There were some shelters nearby but camping is not allowed in them.   I came to a great view of Battleship Island, Garibaldi Lake, and Mount Garibaldi.

The campground has many tent pads and some were still covered in snow.  My tent isn’t free standing so opted for a site on the ground on the east side of the campground.

Lake Garibaldi, Mount Garibaldi, and Mount Price

Far across the lake was the impressive  Sphinx Glacier.

Sphinx Glacier

I explored the area around the campground and decided to go around part of the south side of the Lake.  Looking back, I had my first view of The Black Tusk, my goal for the next day.

The Black Tusk from Garibaldi Lake

The Battleship Islands are the result of volcanic activity. Some of the surrounds peaks are volcanoes including Mount Price.

I went past the ranger station and continued along the lakeshore.

Black Tusk

Mount Price

 I headed back to the campground and the evening light was starting to get nice.

Battleship Islands and the Sphinx Glacier

I took a panorama to capture the spectacular evening scenery!

Nearby  I found a great reflection of Mount Price.

The clouds hovered over a mountain across the lake.

Supposedly there’s an old trail to the top of Mount Price.  I didn’t have time to explore it and it looked snowy up there.

The shelters had picnic table, sinks to wash dishes and a wire to hang food bags.

Day 2: Garibaldi Lake Campground to The Black Tusk and Eastern Cheakamus Lake Campground

In the morning I began the climb up to The Black Tusk.  On the way I passed a scenic pond.

The slopes were quite green and the trail was great, but a little muddy.

To my right I enjoyed the view of Garibaldi Lake down below.

Soon I was on snow and not quite sure where the trail was.

But I could see my goal: The Black Tusk!

The views became bigger as I climbed.

I came to a ridge and turned left toward The Black Tusk.

It was almost whiteout conditions as I hiked the ridge, but there was a definite path.

 I skirted the base of The Black Tusk looking for the chute to the top.  I had read that there was a ribbon to look for.  I came to the chute that looked the easiest but I didn’t see a ribbon so I continued on.  Eventually I came to a straight cliff so I decided to return.  I looked up farther and noticed a small ribbon.  I dropped my pack and climbed to the top.  It was that steep but using hands was necessary.  I checked for loose rocks.  By no means am I a rock climber, but I found this to be more fun than scary.  At the top the views were mostly in the clouds, but they were still special.

From the Summit of The Black Tusk

The clouds began to part of Garibaldi Lake.

Garibaldi Lake from The Black Tusk

I could see down into the valley I would traverse on my way to Cheakamus Lake.

On the way down I took a picture of the crack the I had to maneuver through.

Garibaldi Lake

The last part down was the steepest part.  I could see my pack down below.

Black Tusk, Mimulus, and Garibaldi Lakes

Looking back up at the steepest part of the climb.

From this view I could gain an appreciation for how much taller Mount Garibaldi is than Mount Price.

The clouds no longer interferred with my view of The Black Tusk on the way down. For perspective, look closely to hikers climbing up to the lower ridge.

There was a marmot and I could see all the way to Howe Sound and the Squamish area.

I joined the trail heading to the Panorama ridge but I planned to save it for tomorrow on the way back.

I passed Mimulus and Black Tusk Lakes and the trail junction up to Panorama Ridge as I made my way to Helm Lake.

Panorama Ridge

Helm Lake

There was still lots of snow beside Helm Lake but there was nothing dangerous.

Across Helm Creek there was a great view of The Black Tusk.

I continued to the Helm Creek Campground and took a little break before entering the forest on my way to Cheakamus Lake.

There was large descent to the Cheakamus River.

I came to the first campground on Cheakamus Lake and it was quite crowded as there is a trailhead nearby.  I continued on to the east.

Cheakamus Lake

I came to the campground and I knew the hike along the lake was worth it.  I crossed a stream on a log and found a great campsite right  on the lakeshore.

I wandered around and there was another campsite nearby that would be great as well.  There was a light rain falling as I set up camp.

Cheakamus Lake looking west

Day 3: East Cheakamus Lake to Panorama Ridge and down to unnamed lake.

I began my backtrack to the Panorama Ridge with many beautiful flowers along the trail.

There were some great morning reflections on Cheakamus Lake.

The bridge over Cheakamus River

Cheakamus River

I climbed back up to Helm Creek Campground.  It began to rain so I took a break beneath some trees.

The Black Tusk from Helm Creek Campground

My shoes were a little muddy.

Eventually I decided to continue on.

Helm Creek

Helm Lake

Black Tusk Lake

I began my climb up to the Panorama Ridge in the clouds.  There was a large group in front of me.

There was a nice view of Mimulus, Black Tusk, and Helm Lakes below.

A lot of the climb was on snowfields, but some of it was rocky as well.

I reached the top and there was no view.  I barely even knew where Garibaldi Lake was.  I waited behind a rock wall for some time, hoping the visibility would improve.  It was quite windy and cold. I brought my ice axe but I never had to use it.

I decided to head down.  After descending a ways, to my right I noticed a lake down below not too far off the trail.  I decided to head for it and set up camp if I could find a suitable LNT campsite.

Looking back at my off trail route

Looking down to the unnamed lake

I ended up finding a suitable site beside the lake.

There was an impressive valley away from the lake.

It was a great place to spend the night and I thought of returning to Panorama Ridge in the morning if visibility improved.

Day 4: Unnamed Lake to Panorama Ridge and Parking Lot (via Taylor Meadows)

After a somewhat rainy night, I climbed back up to the Panorama Ridge.

Looking back to where I camped

Visibility was improved!

I came to the classic view of The Black Tusk and Black Tusk Lake.

The views were spectacular but I still wondered if I would be able to see Garibaldi Lake.

Soon I discover that I would!

Garibaldi Lake just visible to the left.

 I came to the panoramic view the Panorama Ridge is named for!

The panorama could be stretched even farther to include The Black Tusk as well!

While the adventure would have been worth it without these views, these were the views I had dreamed of when planning.

View North

On the way down I slid/ran down the snowfield.  It was great fun!

I rejoined the trail and headed back to the parking lot via Taylor Meadows.  It was a long and wet descent, but the joys of the morning more than made up for it!

Overall, the beauty of Garibaldi Provincial Park was unlike any I had experienced before.  I highly recommend this park. It is very feasible to do either the Panorama Ridge or the Black Tusk as a day hike.

N. Cascades National Park: Cascade Pass and Sahale Arm

July 12, 2014

The North Cascades are often called the “American Alps.” North Cascades National Park offers some of the most remote and rugged hiking and climbing in the Lower 48.  The main roads through the park stick to the valleys.  Getting into some of ninety-plus percent of the park’s designated wilderness is where the treasures are found.

Hiking Cascade Pass and Sahale Arm is one of the best day hikes in the park.  A patient had recommended it to me the day before and I had no idea the views that awaited me.  The route up to the Sahale Glacier Campground is about 12 miles round trip with a 4000 foot elevation gain.  See the Washington Trails Association summary here: http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/sahale-arm.

After driving for a couple hours, I arrived at the trailhead at the end of the Cascade River Road at 3 pm.

The views from the trailhead of Johannesburg Mountain were already worth the drive.

I started the climb up on a beautifully designed trail with many switchbacks.

There were views of the Cascade River Valley on the end of the switchbacks.

The trail leveled out and made its way to Cascade Pass.  There was still some snow on the route.

Mix-up Peak to the right

There was a great view to the west as I neared Cascade Pass.

View to the West

Cascade Pass was buried in snow. The view of Pelton Peak and Basin  was amazing!  My parents had hiked here years before and my dad has a framed picture from nearly the same spot.  To my right I could see some climbers high up on a steep peak.

From the pass, I joined the Sahale Arm Trail and and switch-backed up.  There was some snow on the trail, but the trail was well-used.

Looking back to Mix-up Peak

The views just kept getting better!

There was a great view of Sahale Mountain at the trail junction that went down to Doubtful Lake.  I stayed up on the ridge.

Doubtful Lake

Stehekin Valley

Sahale Arm

Mix-up Peak and the Triplets

I came to a great panorama of the Stehekin River Valey and many peaks!

The final ascent to Sahale Glacier Campground was steep.

I met some guys who were planning to camp and then climb Sahale Mountain in the morning.  They had set their tent up inside a rockwall.  We talked for a while.

I enjoyed some great food.  The view was one of the best I have seen!

Sahale Arm and Doubtful Lake (and too many peaks to name!)

It was hard to pry myself from such a spectacular view but I knew I should try to make it back to the trailhead before dark.

On the way down I looked back to Sahale Mountain and Sahale Glacier.

Mix-up Peak and the Triplets

Sahale Mountain

Sahale Mountain and Doubtful Lake

The sun shown on the mountains as I neared Cascade Pass.

Cascade Pass

Looking back to Cascade Pass

Back on the switchbacks I ran down the excellent trail.

Johannesburg Mountain

I met a deer at one of the switchbacks and then another one (or the same one?) at a switchback farther down the trail.

Johannesburg Mountain

I made it back to back to the parking lot just as the sun was about to set.

This was a spectular day-hike!  There are opportunities for backpacking farther into the park from the trailhead.  Take the trail in Stehekin Valley and head east to the Pacific Crest Trail. Head south to High Bridge.  This route is 23 miles and there is a shuttle.

Olympic National Park: Mountains, Coast, and Rainforest

June 13-16, 2014

Olympic National Park feels like it is many unique parks that combine to become one of the best national parks.  There are mountains, lakes, beautiful Pacific coastline, and rainforest all within several hours of each other.

I had the opportunity to spend an extended weekend exploring the park and it was a great experience.  After getting the ferry to Port Townsend, I drove to Heart O’ the Hills Campground for the night.

The next morning I drove up to Hurricane Ridge and hiked the trail to Hurricane Hill.  It was cloudy and there weren’t views of the peaks nearby. This section is on the alternate route of the Pacific Northwest Trail through the park.

At the top of Hurricane Hill visibility was quite low.  On a good day there would be 360 degree panorama views of the Olympic Mountains and the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

I imagined the view that was right in front of me.

The clouds began to clear a little.

There was a marmot nearby.

On the way back, the mountains were just barely in view.

Mount Olympus came into view.

I climbed up on a ridge for a great panoramic view of Mount Olympus!

Next I drove down the road to the Switchback Trail Trailhead for a climb up to Klahhane Ridge on the Switchback Trail.

 It was a short but steep climb up to the ridge.

There were great views of the road below and the mountains in the distance.  Even some blue sky!

Up on the ridge, I stopped and ate some food.

Klahhane Ridge

View from Klahhane Ridge

The view on the other side was spectacular and I watched the clouds moving quickly below.

I hiked a short distance on the ridge but it was still quite snowy.

The clouds came in fast.

There was a friendly marmot enjoying the view.

I ran down the switchbacks back to the trailhead.  On the way I met a deer in the trail.

Shi Shi Beach

I drove along the scenic Highway 112 to the Shi Shi Beach Trailhead.  It is one of the best beaches in the Pacific Northwest.  I took the trail from the Makah Indian Reservation.

The trail was great except for a few muddy spots.

There was a steep descent to the beach.

Shi Shi Beach

I climbed up a headland for a view.

There was a rope to help the climb.

On the other side I found impressive coastal formations.

There was a frame from something that had washed up on shore.

I found starfish and sea anemones.

 I returned to the trail and headed back to the trailhead.  If more time is available, you can continue down the beach to Point of Arches, a classic photo spot.

Ozette Triangle: Cape Alava- Sand Point Loop

This 9.4 mile loops has been regarded as one of the best on the Olympic Coast.  I went counterclockwise.  On the way to the beach there was a lot of great boardwalk.

After a little more than 3 miles I made it to Cape Alava, which is the western terminus of the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail, a that starts 1200 miles to the East in Glacier National Park.

The tide was out quite far and I explored the coast as I hiked south to Sand Point.

After three miles I made it to Sand Point and its Sandy Beach.

Sand Point

There were a few others camped nearby.

Eventually I had to leave and returned into the forest on my way back to Ozette Lake.

Bridge over the Ozette River

Ozette Lake is one of the largest in the state of Washington.

Ozette Lake

This guy was relaxing in a campsite.

Ozette Lake

Rialto Beach and Hole in the Wall

Rialto Beach is located at the end of Mora Road.  Hole in the Wall is a classic sea arch on the Olympic Coast.  The Pacific Northwest Trail also coincides with this beach.

Rialto Beach

Looking South to Little James and James Islands

The tide was coming in.

Rialto Beach had lots of driftwood.

I came to my first view of Hole in the Wall

Hole-in-the-Wall to the right

I climbed up on the bluff for a view from the other side.

The tide was in too much for me to feel comfortable walking through the hole, but this is a popular activity during low tide.

Back on the bluff, I enjoyed a spectacular view to the south.  Notice the amount of driftwood.

On the way back the tides had come in more and I just walked through the foamy waves.

Ruby Beach

I left Rialto Beach and headed to Kalaloch Campground and found a campsite.  I headed back north to Ruby Beach for the evening.  Ruby Beach is only .25 miles from the parking lot and one of the most beautiful easily accessible beaches in the park.

The tide was out and the beach was very flat and shiny.

I didn’t have time, but the hike north to the Hoh River would certainly be worth it.

Abbey Island

There was an eagle flying high above.

I headed back to Kalaloch Campground for the night.  

Kalaloch Campsite

In the morning I headed down to the beach.

There were many reflections in the early morning.

I then headed to the Hoh Rain Forest, one of the largest temperate rain forests in the US.  I joined the Hoh River Trail for a short hike to the Hoh River.  The trail is over 17 miles long and goes the the base of Mount Olympus at Glacier Meadows.  It connects with other trails and would make a great backpacking adventure.

I made it to the Hoh River and took a break to eat a snack.

The Hoh River

Hoh River

 It began to rain which was exciting because I was in a rainforest.

I headed back to the parking lot.

I took a short detour to the Hall of Mosses Trail with bigleaf maples and Sitka Spruce.

The short 0.8 mile trail is very popular with day-hikers and photographers.

After leaving the Hoh Rainforest I started my way back to Port Townsend to catch the ferry.  I drove past Lake Crescent on the way and stopped to take a few pictures.

There were many flowers nearby.

There were great views from the Washington Ferry on the way back.

Port Townsend

It was a great three-day weekend trip to Olympic National Park.   I had limited time in Washington state and didn’t know if I would be able to make it back so I tried to experience the best of the mountains, coast, and rainforest.  Ideally, backpacking trips can be done in each of these settings.  The section of the Pacific Northwest Trail through the park would make a great backpacking trip.  There is also opportunity to hike in different seasons on the coast.  The Olympic Coast has been rated the seventh best long distance trail in the country from the Hoh River to Shi Shi Beach.  Hopefully I will be able to return to Olympic National Park in the near future.

Day Hikes on the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail

May-July 2014

The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail (PNT) is one of the 11 designated national scenic trails in the United States.  While not famous as others such as the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, or Continental Divide, the PNT offers a great diversity of scenery on its course from the Continental Divide in Glacier National Park to the Pacific Ocean in Olympic National Park.  The entire trail is ~1200 miles long, but is approximately 50% on roads according reports I have read from thru-hikers online.  This may be somewhat discouraging for potential thru-hikers, including myself, but the established trail is excellent!

I had the opportunity to complete an internship in Anacortes, Washington, and the PNT goes right through town.  During my time in the area I had to opportunity to complete many day hikes on the PNT from east on the mainland at Oyster Dome to west on the Olympic Peninsula at Cape Alava (report yet to be completed).   Sometimes I would set out on a spectacular day-hike recommended to me, only to later discover that I had been on the PNT.  For maps check out the PNT website here: http://www.pnt.org/trail.html.

I will begin this summary of hikes from the East at Oyster Dome and move westbound to Admiralty Head.

Oyster Dome

While Oyster Dome is not on the PNT itself, I did a loop hike to it that also included a beautiful section of the PNT.  The Washington Trails Association has a great write up on the hike to Oyster Dome here: http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/oyster-dome.  I hiked up to Oyster Dome and then to Lily Lake  and looped back on the PNT past Sammish Overlook.

I began at the trailhead along Chuckanut Drive.  I discovered that I was on the PNT when I saw this impressive marker.

It was a steep climb through lush forest.  The trail was an great condition.

At Oyster Dome there were a couple groups of people, but I’m sure it is far more crowded on the weekends.  The view of the San Juan Islands was special.  I could see Anacortes and the refinery.

View from Oyster Dome

I continued to Lily Lake and the PNT.

The were campsites at Lily Lake and I don’t believe any permit is required.  It would be a great place to set up camp and view the sunset from Oyster Dome.

Lily Lake

I joined the PNT and it was even blazed on the some mossy trees.

I came to the Sammish Overlook.  There is a road to the top for those who are unable to complete the climb.  There was an immense view over the fertile land below.

 There was also a view looking west.

I descended on my way back to the trailhead and came to a view that I had passed earlier.

Once back at the trailhead I crossed the road and wandered through the woods a short distance to get another view of Samish Bay.

Padilla Bay Shore Trail

This was a scenic trail mostly on a dike.   I went from south to north.  The WTA describes it north to south here: http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/padilla-bay?searchterm=padilla+bay.  It was a great evening hike.

It would be interesting to come at different times of the day to see the changing water levels.

The trail is close to scenic farmland and mountains are visible in the distance.

After finishing the trail, I road walked to Bay View State Park for a great view across the bay.

There were great views of the mountainous San Juan Islands.

 On the way back there were great evening views and I loved the clouds.

Tommy Thompson Trail

This is a great paved trail on an abandoned railway corridor in Anacortes with a trestle over Fidalgo Bay and views of Mount Baker, the refinery, and the bay.  I visited this trail several times and ran the entire length round trip once.  It’s 3.3 miles long.  On it’s northern end it is just sidewalk starting near Safeway.  It goes by interesting industrial and urban areas including many boats.

Views across Fidalgo Bay and Mount Baker

The refinery and Mount Baker

Sunset over the trestle

One evening I even saw a seal nearby.

Anacortes Community Forest Lands

Anacortes has an excellent trail system in its community forest lands.  The PNT travels through scenic forests and past lakes and ponds.  I had the opportunity to hike several times and completed the section of the PNT.  There are so many trails that I was even able to make a loop in order not to backtrack.  There is an excellent mapset (see Cranberry Lake, Heart Lake, and Whistle Lake maps here: http://www.pnt.org/trail.html) that I highly recommend as it is easy to get confused with so many trails.  I first did a loop starting from the trailhead at the end of 23rd St.

Little Cranberry Lake

I hiked past several nice ponds.

I hiked south to Heart Lake and Trail 220 and returned mainly on different trails back to the trailhead.

Little Cranberry Lake

Mount Baker from the trailhead

I finished the rest of the PNT in the Anacortes Community Forest Lands starting from the Pass Lake Trailhead in Deception Pass State Park.  I was on trail for sometime and then I decided to experience some PNT road walking for myself.  I had a great view of Mount Erie, the tallest mountain on Fidalgo Island and a popular rock climbing spot.  While the PNT does not go to the top of Mount Erie, a side trip to the top would definitely be worth it while doing a thru hike.

I walked past Lake Erie on the way to enter the Anacortes Community Forest Lands.

Mount Erie

Lake Erie

I left the road and followed great trail to the Heart Lake Area I had been to before.  I turned around and walked back.  I finished the rest of the Pass Lake Loop and returned to the trailhead at Pass Lake.

Deception Pass State Park

Deception Pass State Park is located on the southern end of Fidalgo Island and the northern end of Whidbey Island.  The bridge between the two islands is especially scenic.  I visited this park many times whether to just enjoy the view from the bridge, study on the beach, or go for a hike. The PNT has two routes through the park and I did a significant portion of the trail in the park.

Deception Pass

 Early explorers were deceived by this pass and thought that it was a river when the tide was going out.

There are actually two bridges with a small island in the middle, Pass Island.

 

North Beach is on Whidbey Island and was a great place to study and enjoy the views.

North Beach

 

West Beach provided great views across to the Olympic mountains.

West Beach

Near West Beach, Cranberry Lake was is another special place in the park.

 Cranberry Lake

 (not to be confused with Little Cran. Lk. in the Anacortes For. Lands)

A great loop is to start at the main parking lot by Cranberry Lake, cross the main road and head over to Cornet Bay and then up to Goose Rock, past the Deception Pass Bridge, down to North Beach, continue to West Beach, and along the shore of Cranberry Lake back to the main parking lot.

Cornet Bay

Goose Rock

 Fort Ebey State Park

Fort Ebey was initially a coastal defense fort in World War II.  Now it offers spectacular views, a campground, and a beautiful section of the Pacific Northwest Trail.  I was able to visit Fort Ebey twice.

Mount Rainier from Partridge Point

I had the chance to hike the Bluff Trail and it was well worth it! I started from North of Partridge Point and hiked south.

I hiked down along the Bluff Trail, trying to get to Ebey’s Landing, but I didn’t have a good map with me and the trail turned inland.  I decided to descend steeply to the beach.  I saw an eagle on the way down and then slid to the bottom.  This could have been dangerous.

As I headed north, I noticed a paraglider up over Partridge Point.

It was a great evening at Partridge Point.

Fort Casey State Park

Fort Casey was built in the 1890s as part of a defense for the Puget Sound from naval invasion.  It currently is a state park with great views, a lighthouse, a campground, and the Pacific Northwest Trail.

View from the disappearing gun

Admiralty Head Lighthouse

View to Ebey’s Landing

 While I did most of the on-trail hiking on Fidalgo and Whidbey Islands, I didn’t get to the coastal section between Ebey’s Landing and Fort Casey and also a small section in Joseph Whidbey State Park.  There also may be some trail north of Fort Ebey that I missed.  The remaining “trail” in this area is mainly road walking I believe.

Overall, the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail provides many exceptional day-hiking experiences in the Fidalgo and Whidbey Island Region. It’s hard to surpass the pure scenery of the Pacific Northwest!

Pictured Rocks Lake Shore Trail/NCT

October 2-6, 2014

This is Part 6 of 6 of my NCT/Lake Superior Adventure

After finishing my hike in the Porcupine Mountains, I drove over to Munising.  My dad was meeting me on Wednesday night so I had some time to relax.  I thought about going over to Grand Island for the night, but I stayed in a National Forest Campground near Munising. On Wednesday I went to the ranger station in town to get my permit.  I didn’t have any trouble as every campground was available except for one.

Grand Sable Visitor Center to Munising Falls Visitor Center (11.2+10.5+2+8.7+12=44.4 miles)
Cumulative NCT/Lake Superior Adventure Distance: 660.3 miles

Campsites:
Benchmark
Coves
Coves
Mosquito River

Day 1 Grand Sable Visitor Center to Benchmark (11.2 miles)

We started from the Grand Sable Visitor Center from the backpacker’s parking lot.  There were no other vehicles in the parking lot.

There were informative North Country Trail Signs at the trailhead.

 Grand Sable Visitor Center

The initial stretch of trail was pleasant walking through a field.

We entered the woods and came to an impressive beaver dam.

The trail shares the road for a short distance as it passes Grand Sable Lake.

Grand Sable Lake

The signage was great!

After rejoining the trail we continued near the lake.

We eventually entered dense forest.

We came to the Log Slide but did not descend to Lake Superior.  We headed over to the overlook and took a break.  A few others came by during this time.

We could see the Grand Sable Lighthouse to the west.

Back on the trail, we continued to have great views from the top of the dunes.

Soon we were at the lighthouse and took another break. There were some volunteers and a ranger here offering a tour of the lighthouse.  We paid a small fee and went to the top.

View of Grand Sable Dunes from Grand Sable Lighthouse

We heard from the volunteer that there were shipwrecks nearby so we hiked the beach for a little.

Shipwreck

After passing through the Hurricane River Campground, we returned inland  and hiked through the woods.  We then crossed the road and hiked to our campsite at Benchmark. The campsite is up on some dunes and was shielded from the wind.

 My dad cooked up a great meal.  He wasn’t that hungry so I ate a lot of his food as well.  It began raining throughout the night but we stayed dry in our tent.

Day 2: Benchmark to Coves (10.5 miles)

We had a late start to the day as we relaxed in the tent waiting for the rain to stop.  It slowed a little and we packed up camp.

We hiked with 12 Mile Beach nearby for most of the day.  The trail was off the beach on ridges, providing great views and easy hiking.

The rain let up and we enjoyed the cool temperature.

We went away from the lake on old red beds.

We passed a classic car and stopped for a break.

The Pictured Rocks became visible in the distance.

We hiked across a scenic bridge over Beaver Creek.

We arrived at Coves Campground and set up camp.  There was a group of guys setting up camp right by the campfire ring.  We headed down to the lake just as the sun came out for a few brief moments.

The western end of 12 mile beach

 Back at camp, the other guys had disappeared and their tents were no longer near the fire.  We discovered that they had moved at the request of their leader after he discovered that that weren’t camped close to a numbered post.  After another hearty meal, it was a long cozy rain-filled night.

Day 3: Day-hike to Beaver Lake (~2 miles)

Today was a zero day as far as backpacking miles.  We awoke late in the morning and enjoyed some hot chocolate.  We decided to hike over to Little Beaver and Beaver Lakes.

Coves Campsite

Little Beaver Lake

Beaver Lake

Beaver Lake

We continued back to the Lakeshore Trail, but this time we stuck to the beach on our way back to the campsite.

It was chilly, but we stayed warm.

Back at Coves we relaxed for the rest of the afternoon and then ate a bunch of food.

Day 4: Coves to Mosquito River (8.7 miles)

This day had the best scenery on the trail.  We started hiking past inland cliffs.

Then the beautiful coastal hiking began.

With all the rain, there was lots of water flowing.

We came to our first view looking down on the cliffs.

The trail sticks close to the edge providing view after view.

It was interesting to see the trees down below. Grand Portal Point was visible in the distance.

We came to the Spray Falls Overlook, one of the best views on the trail!

Spray Falls

Next we came to a beach-like section high up on the cliffs.

We saw Spray Falls from up close.

Spray Falls

The trail had no way to drain all the rain water so we did our best to stay dry.

There was another waterfall pouring off the cliff edge.

Some cliffs had fallen off.

Next was the famous Chapel Rock with its unique tree and roots.

Chapel Rock

We left the trail and headed down to Chapel Beach.

Chapel Beach

Chapel Rock

There was a waterfall as the chapel river flowed into Lake Superior.

 Back on the trail, the power of Lake Superior was quite evident.

Looking back we could still see Spray Falls and 12 Mile Beach.

We hiked beside the cliff edge with trees just barely holding on out over the edge.

 We next approached the high cliffs of the Pictured Rocks at Grand Portal Point.

 Grand Portal Point

Looking East from Grand Portal Point

There is a huge beach at Grand Portal Point.  It is 200 feet above the water.

Looking back to Spray Falls

My dad stood on Grand Portal Point to give a perspective of just how tall it is! He is 6 foot 8.

We continued on spectacular trail.

We had a view back to “Indian Head”

There was even a person sitting on the top.

Next we had a view of “Lover’s Leap”.

We reached the Mosquito River, a spectacular place to camp.  After setting up camp, we headed out to the beach and could see that the sun was going to set below the clouds!

My dad stayed on the beach and I headed over to the rocky outcroppings on the other side of the river.  The sunset was spectacular.  I find it hard to imagine a better view for the last evening of my NCT/Lake Superior Adventure!

To my right the sun lit up the rocky shoreline.

The Pictured Rocks were colored with the evening light.

The Mosquito River enters Lake Superior

Day 5: Mosquito River to Munising Falls Visitor Center (12 miles)

In the morning I found a half eaten Larabar in my food bag.  Something must have found its way into the bear box during the night.

Looking back to Lover’s Leap

On the way to Miner’s Beach, we passed more cliffs.

After passing Potato Patch Campground, we descended past inland cliffs to Miner’s Beach.

There was a nice small waterfall on the eastern end of Miner’s Beach.

Miner’s Beah

After a steep climb, we came to Miner’s Castle.

After leaving Miner’s Castle, we had views over to Grand Island.

After walking on some cross country ski trails and passing the Sand Point Junction, we came to the Munising Falls Visitor Center and continued to Munising Falls.

The hike on the Pictured Rocks Lakeshore Trail was complete, as was my NCT/Lake Superior Adventure.   The Lakeshore Trail offered some of the finest scenery in the midwest and was a great place to finish the adventure.

Later in the evening we revisited the Pictured Rocks on a boat tour.

Grand Portal Point

 The next day we returned home, passing by Tahquamenon Falls State Park on the way.

Upper Tahquamenon Fall

Porcupine Mountains Loop

September 26-28, 2014

This loop was Part 5 of 6 of my NCT/Lake Superior Adventure

Porcupine Mountains total distance: 52.2 miles
Cumulative NCT/Lake Superior Adventure distance: 615.9 miles

The Route:
Day 1: Begin at Presque Isle River and take Lake Superior Trail to Campsite LS site #1 (3.1 miles)
Day 2: Lake Superior Trail>Big Carp River Trail>Escarpment Trail>Government Peak Trail to Trap Falls (22.4 miles)
Day 3: Government Peak Trail>South Mirror Lake Trail>Summit Peak>Beaver Creek Trail>Little Carp River Trail>North Country Trail>Lake Superior Trail  (26.7 miles)

Day 1: Presque Isle River to Lake Superior Campsite #1 (3.1 miles)
After taking a shuttle from Ely, Minnesota to Jay Cooke State Park near Duluth, I drove to Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park and parked at the backpackers’ parking area near the Presque Isle River.  After paying my overnight camping fees in the self register station, I began my short hike in the evening.

Part of the Lake Superior Trail is shared with the North Country National Scenic Trail.

I came to Manabezho Falls on the Presque Isle River.

Presque Isle River

There was a nice reflection and Lake Superior.

There was an interesting rocky crossing of a dry fork of the river.

The blazes were painted on the rock.

The Lake Superior Trail was mostly through the woods with some ups and downs over ridges.

 After passing Speaker’s Cabin, I came to my campsite on the ridge of Lake Superior.  I had the place all to myself.

The leaves were colorful!

The evening sun lit up the lake shore to the east.

It was a great campsite, one of the best on my NCT/ Lake Superior Adventure.

I had a great sunset over Lake Superior!

Day 2
Lake Superior Campsite #1 to Trap Falls (22.4 miles)

I awoke to colorful red leaves on the ground by my tent.

One thing that I noticed about the forests in the Porkies was that even though I was in the trees I could still see quite far and there was much less undergrowth than up north in Minnesota.

The trail went down to cross some creeks and was surprisingly steep at times.

I came to the Little Carp River.

I continued on the Lake Superior Trail.  I planned to return to this spot after completing my loop.

 The trail was closer to Lake Superior here and I passed several campsites beside the lake.  Most of them were still occupied.

I took a break on the lakeshore.

I came to the Big Carp River.

I joined the Big Carp Trail and followed it upstream.

Looking out to Lake Superior from the Big Carp River

There were some small waterfalls on the Big Carp River.

I continued through the forest.  I passed two large groups heading the opposite direction and there was a fun river crossing on a log.

I climbed up to impressive views of the Big Carp Valley.

The views of the old growth forest’s fall colors were some of the best I have seen!

Lake of the Clouds came into view in the distance.

The Porkies may have the rockiest and most rugged, cliff-like terrain in Michigan.

Lake of the Clouds

I came to the popular Lake of the Clouds Overlook.  Notice the people on the top of the cliff.

The Big Carp River down far below.

The classic Lake of the Clouds overlook.

 From the overlook I joined the Escarpment Trail.

The Upper Carp above Lake of the Clouds

I looked down and discovered five leaves side by side, all different colors from red to green.

The Escarpment Trail was impressive as it paralleled the Upper Carp River down below.

Turning around revealed another view of Lake of the Clouds.  This view was there almost the entire time I was on the Escarpment Trail.

The Upper Carp River

As I continued on the Escarpment Trail, Lake of the Clouds got farther and farther away.

As I neared the end of the Escarpment Trail, I came to a view of Lake Superior in the distance.

I joined the Government Peak Trail and crossed over the Upper Carp River.  I came to Trap Falls and decided to set up camp.  I crossed over the stream and set up camp the appropriate distance from the stream.

Trap Falls

Day 3
Trap Falls to Presque Isle River

Today was a long and exciting day!  I began hiking in the beautiful forest. Leaves covered the forest floor.

I ascended to Government Peak which did not provide any views outside of the forest.

Lots of leaves were falling into the streams.  I believe this is how a lot the rivers in this area get a “root beer” color.

I crunched my way through the leafy treaded trail.

I made it to the scenic Mirror Lake.

There was a nice reflection as I crossed the outlet stream.

I had a good climb to the top of Summit Peak.  There is fantastic lookout tower that provides exceptional views.  On a clear day Isle Royale, Part 1 of this exciting NCT/ Lake Superior Journey, is visible many miles away.  My view was impressive but somewhat hazy as I could barely make out Lake Superior.

 Looking down to the boardwalk below

I came to a second view point from a slightly lower vantage point.

Then I was back into the forest on my way to Lake Superior.

I hiked past Lily Pond on my way to join the North Country Trail on the Little Carp River.

Little Carp River

Trapper’s Falls

The riverbank was quite steep in some places.

Near the Lake Superior Trail, I came to Trader’s Falls.

After the meeting up with the Lake Superior Trail, my loop was complete.  I began my backtrack to the Presque Isle River.  I took a short break on the lakeshore by a big piece of driftwood.

I returned to the Lake Superior Trail for a pleasant evening hike back to the Presque Isle River.  The sun was shining through the trees.

Back at the Presque Isle River

The bridge over the Presque Isle River

I continued farther upstream to Manido Falls.

 Farther upstream I could just barely see Nawadaha Falls.

I returned to my truck in the backpackers’ parking lot and my adventure in Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park was complete.

The Porkies are definitely up there as far as hikes in Michigan.  The number of people was quite a contrast to the solitude of the Boundary Waters, but the views here should not be missed, especially in the fall.  There were still some mosquitoes here, but I’m sure they are far worse earlier in the season. The trails are well marked and maintained, although somewhat muddy in places. The Porkies have much to offer: scenic waterfalls and streams, old growth forest, pristine Lake Superior shoreline, and rocky ridges overlooking inland Lake of the Clouds.

One segment of my NCT/Lake Superior Adventure remained, Part 6: the Pictured Rocks Lakeshore Trail.

Kekekabic Trail Thru-hike 2014

September 22-25, 2014
Gunflint Trail to Snowbank Lake Trailhead (11.5+14.5+8.25+5.25=39.5 miles)
Cumulative NCT/Lake Superior Adventure Miles: 563.7

The “Kek” was part 4 of 6 of my NCT/Lake Superior Adventure.

Campsites:
Agamok Falls
Thomas River
Parent Lake

Day 1: Gunflint Trail to Agamok Falls (11.5 miles)

At the trailhead I found a warning sign regarding the fire damage on the eastern end of the trail.

The initial section of the trail was in great condition.

The trail passes some historic mining sites.

The Kek stuck close to the shoreline of some small lakes.

Mine Lake

I found a berry-filled treasure.

I entered the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness and for the first time crossing the boundary, there was a sign.

 I came to the scenic Bingshick Lake.

At Bingshick Lake I met two day-hikers, Dennis and Laurel, and they offered me some chocolate and an apple.  We talked for some time and I learned of exciting adventures in Scotland and the Wind Rivers.  Thank you!  They told me that I was going to have great weather the rest of the week.  There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and it was actually somewhat warm out.

 I continued past Faye and Warclub Lakes.  The trail became more challenging but was marked frequently by cairns and ribbons.

 At times I felt sure that I couldn’t possibly be on the trail, only to see a cairn right beside me.

 I passed Howard Lake.

The impact of the fire was apparent nearly everywhere I went.

Up on the ridge, I caught a view of Gabimichigami Lake, the deepest lake in Minnesota.

The northern end of Gabimichigami Lake

Some of the campsites in the Boundary Waters were nothing more than a fire ring without anywhere flat to set up a tent.

Gabimichigami campsite

After climbing up an especially thick section, I came up on another ridge.

The leaves were changing colors.

I passed a small pond with a nice reflection.  The trail using beaver dams frequently as a means of crossing.

I reached my destination for the night, Agamok Falls.

Agamok Falls

There is an impressive bridge over the waterfall.

Campsite by Agamok Falls

Day 2: Agamok Falls to Thomas River (14.5 miles)

The next morning I slept in a little and went back to the falls to eat my breakfast: blueberry pie.

 I climbed up to the tallest points and biggest views on the trail on the ridge above Travois Lake.

On the way down I accidentally ended up at Travois Lake after following a pink ribboned trail.

After returning to the trail, I continued to Harness Lake.

There was a beautiful reflection in a pond.

I took a short side trip to Kekekabic Lake.

The Kekekabic Cabin was nearby, but it was closed.

Strup Lake

A typical section of the Kek

I decided to set up camp by the Thomas River portage.

There was a nice waterfall nearby.

Day 3
Thomas River to Parent Lake (8.25 miles)

Campsite by Thomas River

The bridge over Thomas River

It was a short hike over to the scenic Medas Lake.

Moiyaka Lake was nearby as well.

Moiyaka Lake

Typical tread

The path to Drumstick Lake is marked by the classic old band saw.

I went off the Kek to get a view of Disappointment Lake.  I was not disappointed in the least.

Back on the Kek I hiked past a peaceful meadow.  I kept my eye out for wildlife.

Early in the afternoon I made it to my last campsite on the Kek, Parent Lake.  It was a perfect place to spend the final night of a 400+ mile continuous hike that started back in Duluth on the Superior Hiking Trail.  In fact, I hadn’t even been in a vehicle the entire time.

Parent Lake

Leaves were falling from the trees and the wind was blowing them onto the lake in front of me as I relaxed on the rocky shore.

I made a favorite meal. Burritos!

After heading back to my tent for a mini-slideshow on my camera of my hike all the way from Duluth, I returned for an evening view.

It was spectacular!

 Day 4
Parent Lake to Snowbank/Kekekabic Trailhead (5.25 miles)

Parent Lake had some nice reflections in the morning.

Back on the Kek, I still had some challenges.

At one point I wandered off to a beaver pond before I realized that I was no longer on the trail.  The colors were getting bright.

After passing through a logging area, I came to a nice overlook.  I believe that is Snowbank Lake in the distance.

The trail was actually quite easy to follow, but I did get a little confused at a forest road crossing.  There was blue ribbons on trees, but they were not trail markers.

 Massive cairns!

Soon I came to Snowbank Lake Road and the Western Terminus of the Kek.  My hike on the Kekekabic Trail was complete.  Hiking the Kek was a great and remote experience.  The weather was spectacular.  It almost felt like I had entered a new world after leaving the BRT.  While it didn’t have the stunning cliffs and overlooks of the Border Route Trail, it had extreme solitude.  I didn’t see a person for two and half days.  Unlike the Border Route, the Kek has no bail out points with the only entry points to the trail at its eastern and western termini.  The trail passed many lakes and a couple waterfalls.  The contrast of the fire burned eastern section and the forested western section was interesting.  The trail was certainly rugged  but I had more route finding difficulties on the Border Route Trail.  My hiking speed was, however, faster on the Border Route.  I certainly could have hiked the Kek faster, but I was in no rush to finish.

Kek’s Western terminus

On the other side of the road there was a sign.

I stopped at the trailhead for a little break and then began walking down the road to hitch to Ely.

Once I made it to the main road I turned right and kept walking.

There was little traffic, but the road was beautiful.  After a short time, I heard a car coming. I turned and stuck out my thumb, but the car continued on its way.  A few minutes later I noticed a car coming the other way.  Then it stopped.  I looked closer.  It was the same car.  They had come back for me!  It was a nice couple from Florida, up checking out some family property.  We had a nice conversation as we headed to Ely.  They dropped me off at the Dairy Queen and I got a delicious Pumpkin Pie Blizzard.  After spending the night in Ely, I got a shuttle ride back to Duluth the next morning from the Ely Shuttle Service.  It was a beautiful ride!

It was great to be back where I had started hiking Minnesota’s North Shore on the Superior Hiking Trail in Jay Cooke State Park along the St. Louis River.

St. Louis River, Jay Cooke State Park

My NCT/Lake Superior Adventure still had more to come as I returned to Michigan for Part 5 of 6, a two night loop in Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park.

Border Route Trail Thru-hike 2014

September 18-22, 2014

This is Part 3 of 6 of my NCT/Lake Superior Adventure.

Otter Lake Road to Gunflint Trail (6.75+18.67+17.84+16.29+7.0=66.55)
Cumulative NCT/Lake Superior Adventure miles: 524.2 miles

Campsites:
Near Pigeon River
Gogebic Lake
South Lake
Gunflint Lodge

Day 1 Otter Lake Road to Pigeon River: (6.75)

I began my Border Route Trail Thru-hike while simultaneously finishing my Superior Hiking Trail thru-hike.

The trail was in good condition and I quickly reached the 270 degree overlook of the Pigeon River, Swamp River and Canada.  The Pigeon River is the US/Canada border.  The Border Route Trail stays relatively close all the way to its headwaters to the west near Mountain Lake.

Pigeon River

The Swamp River heads south to Devil Track Lake and becomes the Devil Track River, one of the many scenic rivers that I crossed on the Superior Hiking Trail.

Swamp River

The end of the Superior Hiking Trail

After leaving the overlook I continued solely on the Border Route Trail.  I could see that it had some more undergrowth but was easy to follow. Blue ribbons mark the trail.

After only a few feet, I found a skeleton.

The tread was soft and made for excellent hiking.

I loved the views from the ridge!

The river down below!

Typical trail conditions

There were even signs directing me in the right direction.  In some places all that would be left was the green post.

Portage Brook

There was a primitive campsite nearby, and then I crossed Portage Brook.

Here is the bridge over the the Stump River. I actually went the wrong way after crossing the bridge and ending up walking down a road for a short period. After not seeing a blue ribbon for a while, I decided that this walking was too easy to be the BRT, so I ran back to the bridge and found the real trail.  I should have turned right after crossing the bridge.

The trail then headed north to the Pigeon River and I found a small spot to set up my tent.

Day 2
Pigeon River to Gogebic Lake (18.67 miles)

Pigeon River with Canada on the other side

The BRT climbed up a ridge overlooking the Pigeon River.  From here I accidentally ended up on a short spur trail (pink ribbons) that took me to a road.  The trail was no where on the other side and hadn’t seemed as well maintained so I returned back to the overlook and found the trail.  From this and the experience the day before, I learned that it was best to make sure I was on the BRT and not some random trail before hiking too far.

In less than an hour I came to my first view of South Fowl Lake.  The Pigeon River flows out of South Fowl Lake after draining from several lakes in the Boundary Waters.

In a different direction I had the view below.

South Fowl Lake

There were several amazing overlooks that left me in awe.

 I could see North Fowl Lake as well. Again, Canada is on the other side of the lakes.

 The trail was becoming thicker but actually easier to discern than it looks.

I came to the parking area by McFarland Lake.  I met four guys just heading out on a day-hike to where I had just been.  I told them of the great views and that the trail wasn’t that hard to follow.  The BRT continues across the bridge over the flow from McFarland Lake to Little John Lake.

There was a brief road walk to connect to the trail on the other side.

In a little over a half mile I entered the Boundary Water Canoe Area Wilderness (unmarked) and then continued uphill to a view of John Lake.  I took a short break here to eat some food.

I then headed to East Pike Lake and then followed the ridge above Pine Lake.  This section was forested and Pine Lake was not visible. It began to rain and walking through the undergrowth left me soaked.  I used my umbrella to help somewhat.  I came to a nice BRT sign near a portage with a great view from under my umbrella.

The trail for the most part was in great shape.  There probably were places where I had to detour around fallen trees but nothing that slowed me significantly that I recall.

I continued on in the woods until I came to a great view of West Pike Lake and its island.

I made my way to Gogebic Lake.  The trees thinned out a little in some places but I missed some of the overlooks on the map or maybe trees have just grown.

The trail loops around the western side of Gogebic Lake and I came to a nice campsite on its western shore.

After checking the time, I decided that it was time to set up camp.  At this point I was really starting to feel the days getting shorter.  Earlier on the Superior Hiking Trail, I most surely would have continued for another hour.  By this time on my NCT/Lake Superior adventure I was occasionally waking up and getting packed using my headlamp.

Gogebic Lake

Day 3
Gogebic Lake to South Lake (17.84 miles)

This day provided some of the finest scenery of my entire NCT/Lake Superior Adventure.  It was my favorite day on the BRT including highlights of Mountain, Watap, Rose, and South Lakes.

Early in the day I came to the Clearwater stream bridge and took a short detour down the portage to West Pike Lake.  It is significantly larger than Gogebic Lake.

West Pike Lake

I took a short detour to explore the campsite by the east end of Clearwater Lake.

As I continued to hike, I came to some impressive views of Mountain Lake.

There were many rocky cliff overlooks and I took time to explore.  Some of them I was able to find by looking at pictures in the guidebook.  The picture below is the same as the one in the guidebook except that the guidebook has a person standing on the cliff edge.

Mountain Lake

Looking back up on the scramble to the one of the overlooks.

I had to leave these impressive views but I still had more views of Mountain Lake to come!  The trail goes to the western ridge above Mountain Lake and the view east is nearly endless.

The cliffs previously pictured are on the ridge to the right.

I lost the trail going around the ridge after the overlook but eventually started walking in the direction to where the trail was supposed to be and was soon back on the trail.  I came to a nice view of Watap Lake from a distance.

Over an hour later I made it to the impressive cliffs above Watap Lake.

I even took the time to take a panorama.  Sometimes it’s just too hard to fit these views into a single photo. The sun was shining and there were fall colors starting.

Next I came to Rove Lake.

Then there was a beautiful section of trail along an old railroad bed with Canada only mere feet away.

In one section, beaver activity resulted in the trail being fully submerged.

I just kept walking.

The colors were really coming out in this section and the walking was some of the easiest on the trail.

The next highlight of this eventful day was Rose Lake.  I passed some campsites near the water.

There were views across to cliffs in Canada.

There was blue sky, something I hadn’t seen the last couple days.

The trail climbed up to fine views of Rose Lake East.

I could see a canoe down far below and hear the water from Stairway Portage Falls.

Rose Lake-view to east

Cliffs in Canada across Rose Lake

The trail descended to the falls at stairway portage.  I walked down 28 steps to get the view below.  The water flows from Duncan Lake to Rose Lake.  There was a group of canoeists nearby taking pictures.  They were the only people that I saw directly on the trail.

The trail climbed up again and had a more expansive view of Rose Lake to the east.

Then I came to the famous views of the cliffs on the west side of the lake.  The lake is much more narrow here, almost like a river.

Rose Lake, Rat Lake, and South Lake

I planned to camp on the near side of South lake, the furthest of the three lakes below.

I continued along the ridge to another overlook.  I found it interesting that the fall colors were much more vibrant in the US than Canada.

 There were views across into Canada.

View looking to the east part of the west part of Rose Lake (if that even makes sense)

The trail to the overlook

I turned right and followed the South Lake Trail to a special campsite on the east side of South Lake.

South Lake

South Lake Campsite

Day 4
South Lake to Gunflint Lodge (15.59+0.7=16.29)

It was a cold and wet morning.  I made my way to Mucker Lake.  After passing the lake I had some trouble following the stream.  I eventually backtracked and found blue ribbons that indicated that the stream was supposed to be crossed. Thank you to all who volunteer to mark the trail.  Without these small ribbons I would have been far more confused!

After passing the Topper Lake cutoff I came to the beautiful Topper Lake.  I took a break to warm up in the sun. The sun!

Back on the trail, there was a great view of lakes to the north.

Topper Lake

As I approached the fire-burned area from the Ham Lake Fire the views opened up and I could really experience the topography. 

Frances Bay and North Lake

Next I came to views of Gunflint Lake and I would continue to enjoy views of it throughout the day.

View to the northeast

Gunflint Lake

Looking east to North Lake

After passing the Crab Lake Cutoff, I next came to Bridal Falls and crossed on a bridge.

It was a short and steep descent to Bridal Falls.

Bridal Falls

East side of Gunflint Lake

The were some wooden chairs near Loon Lake so I stopped for a break.  There was a loon swimming.

There was a tree standing high above the rest.

After some time on cross country ski trails, I came to overlooks from the Gunflint Cliffs.

I could see Gunflint Lodge down below.

Even though they didn’t fee quite as remote, the views from the Gunflint High Cliffs were some of the best on the BRT.

I followed some wide cross country ski trails on my way to Gunflint Lodge.

Where the BRT crosses the South Gunflint Road I turned right and road walked to Gunflint Lodge.  I picked up my resupply package with food and maps for my upcoming hike on the Kekekabic Trail.  There wasn’t much camping nearby and I wanted to devour lots of food so I chose to get a spot in the bunkhouse for the night.  There was a great sunset view from the Gunflint Lake dock.  I had a huge meal and they even gave me two free slices of pie for on the trail! Thank you Gunflint Lodge!

Day 5
Gunflint Lodge to Gunflint Trail (Western Terminus)
The next morning I made my way back to the trail and continued to Magnetic Rock.

There was a view from the west side of Gunflint Lake.

After crossing the Cross River on a bridge I continued on more Cross Country Skiing Trails.  Sometimes I questioned if I was still on the BRT, but my general rule was to continue straight at intersections unless there was a blue ribbon or sign.  This worked well and I didn’t lose the trail.  The western section is probably the most confusing section of trail, because there are so many different trails crossing.  I also had some confusion because I was trying to read the guidebook backwards.  Overall, it was just the feeling that I didn’t feel completely confident that I was on the trail even when I was in fact on the trail.

I came to the impressive Magnetic Rock, rising high above all its surroundings.

My BRT thru-hike was almost complete as I made my way to the Gunflint Trail.

I made it to the sign and the BRT was complete.  I signed the register at the empty trailhead.

I went over to the picnic table and ate some blueberry pie in celebration!

Overall, the Border Route was a special trail, a worthwhile addition to a Superior Hiking Trail thru-hike.  While somewhat overgrown (which I expected), I rarely lost the trail for more than a brief moment.  There was some undergrowth but nothing that slowed progress significantly.  It was a remote experience and I didn’t see another backpacker the entire time. Thank you to the Border Route Trail Association for all you do to provide this exceptional wilderness hiking experience!

My adventure was not complete, however, as I continued to the Kekekabic Trail for additional rugged adventures in the Boundary Waters.

Superior Hiking Trail: Grand Marais to 270 Degree Overlook

Days 13-15: September 16-18, 2014
Grand Marais to 270 Degree Overlook (14.4+25.5+18.3= 58.2 miles)
Cumulative SHT Miles(counting spurs and road walks to town): 262.15+58.2=320.35)
NCT/Lake Superior Adventure Cumulative miles: 457.65 miles

Highlights: Pincushion Mountain, Devil Track River, Kadunce River, Brule River, Hellacious Overlook, Jackson Lake, 270 Degree Overlook

The Superior Hiking Trail was Part 2 of 6 of my NCT/ Lake Superior Adventure.

Campsites:
Cliff Creek
South Carlson Pond

Highlights: Pincushion Mountain, Devil Track River, Kadunce River, Brule River, Judge C. R. Magney State Park, Hellacious Overlook, 270 Degree Overlook

Day 13: Grand Marais to Cliff Creek (1.8+.5+1.6+10+.5= 14.4)
It was a nice climb back to the trail from Grand Marais.  The trail then headed to the Pincushion Mountain Trailhead with sweeping Lake Superior views.

There was a nice view of Grand Marais and an informative Superior National Forest Sign, the only national forest that the SHT passes through.

 I continued on a ski trail until I reached the spur for Pincushion Mountain, one of the must-do spur trails on the SHT.  There was a short, steep climb up a rocky slab and then a large rocky summit.

Looking back to Grand Marais

 Pincushion Mountain

 Back on the trail, I came to the deep canyon of the Devil Track River with it unique rocky colors. The water flowed from the Swamp River, a river that I would see in the future on the Border Route Trail.

There was an impressive overlook of the river far below.

After Woods Creek, the trail climbed to one of my favorite views of Lake Superior on the trail.  It was a nice open field with completely unobstructed views.

The view back to Pincushion Mountain

I met a few Southbound hikers, some of them thru-hikers I believe.  Most of them seemed rushed and didn’t talk much.  

I set up camp at the Cliff Creek Campsite and I barely remember it, so I must have had a relaxing evening.

Day 14: Cliff Creek to South Carlson Pond (25.5 miles)

The next morning I came to another overlook of Lake Superior and then came to the scenic Kimball Creek.

Kimball Creek

I next came to the Kadunce River.

The Kadunce River was great.  I wish I could have hiked more of it on the spur trail from the parking lot.

My excitement for the upcoming Lakewalk was growing as I passed through a young forest.

The Lakewalk was a highlight of the trail, the only section outside of the Duluth Lakewalk actually on Lake Superior.

 I passed a group of southbound hikers while on the lakewalk.

 It was windy and there were some waves.

 

There was even some rocky shoreline.

 The waves were so big in places that I had to time them in order to not get wet.

Near the east end, there was an island.

 At the east end of the Lakewalk I met a couple of south bound long distance hikers.  They asked if I was planning to continue on the Border Route Trail.  With a big smile I informed them that I was.  They let me know of their tough experience on it and “how it hadn’t been maintained in years.”  They had had to leave the trail and were trying to hike south on the SHT as far as they could with the time they had remaining.  They told me that I would just have to push through it.  Hopefully they had a better experience on the SHT.

After the Lakewalk I passed a nice bridge.

 I stopped in the Judge Magney State Park parking lot for a snack and to fill my water bottle.  There were a number of day-hikers in the area heading to Devil’s Kettle Falls even though it was chilly and starting to rain.  A woman came by and asked if I was hiking the trail and I told her that I was.   She went and got me a fresh orange.  Thank you!

 I met a day hiker that knew a lot about the trails on the north shore.  He knew all the state parks and had just been hiking up by Grand Portage.  He also was into backpacking sections of the SHT.

Brule River

Upper Falls of the Brule River

I talked to another couple for awhile on a big stairway and then I went to the intriguing Devil’s Kettle Falls where half of the water disappears into the kettle. This was one of my favorites waters on the trail.

I found a closer look of the falls on a side trail.

After leaving the Brule River the trail was somewhat overgrown and I got soaked by all the wet underbrush.  I crossed the Flute Reed River and had some road walking to a nice pond.  In one spot the trail turned off the road in a somewhat rough section, only to return shortly later.  Arriving back on the road, there was no trail marker. I just kept walking the road and had no problems.

Near Carlson Pond I head some difficulty losing the trail as I crossed Carlson Creek.  There were some ribbons but maybe I just wasn’t paying close enough attention.  Eventually I found the trail on the other side and set up my last camp on the SHT at South Carlson Pond Campsite.

Day 15: South Carlson Pond to 270 degree overlook(18.3 miles)
There were mystifying views of Carlson Pond in the morning.

I had a challenge crossing a beaver dam.  The trail was quite wet here.  I went to step down from a boardwalk and my feet slipped right out from underneath.  I was fine, but one of my trekking poles snapped.

After mistakingly taking the spur to the Arrowhead parking lot, I returned to the main SHT and later had outstanding views out to Lake Superior and ponds below.

On the horizon I could faintly make out Isle Royale National Park and where I had completed Part One of this exciting NCT/Lake Superior Adventure.

The views from Hellacious Overlook were breathtaking!

I was beginning to grasp that the SHT was almost complete, but I was quite excited that this great NCT/ Lake Superior journey had more excitement to come.

The trail through this remote section was maintained very well, better than I anticipated from previous hiker reports.

Jackson Lake

The orange leaves were just coming out in this area.

The trail was forested as I climbed Rosebush Ridge to the highest point on the SHT.

There was a view carved through the trees a little after the high point.

The end of the trail became very real as I came to the last trailhead sign before Otter Lake Road. I saw a day-hiker out enjoying one of the most remote parts of this scenic trail.

I traveled through some nice meadows before coming to the former “official” end of the trail.

My thruhike was not complete, however, as the SHT’s new official terminus is after a mile of shared trail on the Border Route Trail to the 270 degree overlook of the Pigeon River and Canada.

While flipping the trail register, I found an entry from the couple I had met while on the Lakewalk.  This was somewhat concerning as I probably only had five days of food.

I have not included their names for privacy, but what was more concerning was that the guy when he signed it indicated that he had hiked the Appalachian Trail, Long Trail, and Pacific Crest Trail as well as many others around the world.  He definitely had more trail mileage experience than me, but I was going in with the mindset that the BRT would be an off-trail route and any form of a trail would be a bonus.  His normal miles/day was quite similar to mine, but 5 miles/days seemed daunting. Having to leave a trail is a decision I have never had to make.  I commend them for making such a tough decision and for warning future hikers.

Anyway, it was a short hike to 270 degree overlook and the trail was in good condition.

The Pigeon River and Canada!

The Swamp River

The new northern SHT terminus is a fitting end to one of the best semi-long distance trails in the US.

Continue to Border Route Trail thruhike